Hello All,

Well, we may not be in the Christmas frenzy like the rest of you preparing for Santa and holidays with family and friends but we’re in a frenzy just the same.

Week one, in our new host country, we bought Jim a car, rented and moved into a three-bedroom house, bought a bed and then a cat! Yes, a cat. I also applied for two jobs. A pretty productive week I’d say. Oh, I almost forgot. We made friends with a local bartender and may end up calling his pub our home-away-from home. Tuesday nights at Murphy’s Law [the bar] is coin toss night. For every drink, he tosses a coin and if you call it your beer is free - every drink, every time. That’s just saving money the way we see it. Jim won 3 out of 4 of tosses last Tuesday!

Week two, we bought my car, hit every second hand store in town, all 11 of them. We also stalked the Craig’s List equivalent, called Trade Me, for bargains. We sourced up furniture: a couch, television and DVD player, recliner, bbq (you know – all the necessities of life), a huge climbing gym for the cat (more like kitty Disneyland), and a sweet black and white cow-patterned bean bag chair. Appliances were also on the list: washer, dryer, vacuum, refrigerator and microwave. We hit a huge one day sale (50% off) at the local Target-like store and outfitted ourselves with pots and pans, sheets and pillows, 240v appliances like an electric toothbrush (a huge indulgence after living on a boat for three years), a toaster and a hair dryer(yet another perk of land living). The salt water on the boat trashed our pots and pans and besides, none of our belongings, from the boat (now in Australia) or storage (in San Jose), have found their way to us yet. Oh and the two jobs I applied to, in week one, both contacted me for potential interviews! Wow, neither of us expected that. One job I already turned down pursuing – the pay was not enough. I’m not expecting to make what I made in the U.S. but this would have been just over one-third of what I was earning. That’s a little too much of a pay cut. However, I am still meeting with the agency recruiting for the position next week in Wellington. The agency concentrates on Human Resources placements. Both the agency and myself felt it would be beneficial to meet though in the event something more senior crosses their desk (i.e. higher pay). The other job would be a step toward advancing my career to the Director level. Since this would be a higher position, I’m not positive the CEO will be keen on my lack of New Zealand work experience but it can’t hurt to aim high. My resume will be presented to him later this week by the agency hiring for the position. Almost all jobs in New Zealand go out to a recruitment agency to be filled.

So, life is moving along at a super fast pace but the sooner we get some of this nesting done, the sooner it can feel like home.

Our cat is a rescue cat, in that the family gave him away because, as they put it, “We have too many cats.� They have too many kids and too much garbage around their place too, but we weren’t looking to adopt either of those. We named our new feline family member Woodrow or Woody The Wonder Cat for short. He’s an 8-month-old, tiger-striped tabby and he’s a big boy. There’s nothing dainty about this guy either. He’s a brute in his mannerisms but very cuddly and purrs almost constantly. We’re pretty sure we introduced him to his first ever cat toys, cat bed, scratching post, litter box and maybe even his first ever bonafide cat food. He’s taken to all of them quite well.

Our town, Palmerston North, is not large but not small. It’s just right. [Although, it is small enough to not require a zip code on your mail, like most of New Zealand.] It has a charming square, which is its focal point. When school is in session, the town population swells to 80,000 with 40% of the population is affiliated with the school. Like everywhere else in the country, the people are extremely friendly and welcoming, even the other foreigners you meet here. We’re not sure we can fit in Palmy, as it’s nicknamed, is completely surrounded by cattle and sheep ranches, yet the town offers every major grocery store and department store we’ve seen in our previous travels around the country. It doesn’t seem to lack for anything other than traffic, high-rises and an ocean view. Our place is at the southernmost edge of town and for us to drive to the square it takes 4 minutes, including signal lights.

The weather is colder than we’re used to but that’s to be expected after 3 1/2 years of summer - three of those years living on a boat travelling South Pacific islands. The heat of summer doesn’t arrive in New Zealand until January and February. It cools off considerably at night so much that we eagerly await the arrival of our big heavy comforter from our mountain house. It’s also pretty windy much of the time but wind was to be expected. After all, Palmy is home to the largest wind farm in the southern hemisphere. Hundreds of windmills dot the rolling countryside to the northeast.

So, that’s it in a nutshell. The Drifters are fast becoming The Settlers.

We wish everyone a happy holiday season and remember to include us on your Christmas card lists! We love seeing the photo holiday cards and reading the Christmas letters.

Our two-month North American tour took us to Canada, Oregon, and California, with seven different places to stay. It was great seeing so many of you and we apologize to those we missed. Upon our departure, we said “Hope to see you again soon” to family and friends, and farewell to things like my bike, slurpees, Taco Bell and great Chinese food.

With passports in hand, we flew out today to find a new home and embark on a new career for Jim in New Zealand. Living on the boat has made us both more comfortable with living on the fly but this is an extreme undertaking for both of us: no car, no home, no furniture and in the very near future I’ll be looking for a job in a down economy in a foreign country where the employment law is so very different than the one I know (AND my profession is based on knowing the employment law!) Many of you have asked, and we’re sorry to report but no, Blue Plains Drifter has not sold and remains at the dock in Australia. There has been interest and a few people came to see her, perhaps planning exotic adventures of their own. Cross your fingers that we can close one chapter soon as the next has already begun.

Although we don’t have a home in New Zealand just yet, our door is always open to visitors. So, if we didn’t catch you stateside (and even if we did) plan to visit us in Hobbit land in the coming year/s!

We wish everyone a happy and safe holiday season!

One chapter ends and another begins…

We recently spent two weeks in Brisbane, Australia. As luck would have it, this was when the once-in-a-lifetime sandstorm blanketed the eastern seaboard. In addition to washing the boat several times to remove the orange glow of sand, we moved all our belongings off and polished Blue Plains Drifter up for the sale dock. Blue Plains Drifter brought us from Mexico to the Marquesas; and on to the Tuamotus, The Society Islands, Cook Islands, Tonga, New Zealand, Fiji, and finally Australia. It was a grand adventure but the time has to come to close this chapter. Luckily for us, we found another equally exciting one to open next.

We submitted our New Zealand residency application and should be approved in the next six months (bureaucracy is apparently the same around the world—SLOW!) However, we’re not just moving and becoming New Zealand residents. That would be too ordinary, too easy. Hold on to your hats because this may surprise you. It surprised us! Jim is embarking on a career change. He enrolled in a veterinary science program, and starts at Massey University in February. Yes, Jim is hoping to become the next Dr. Doolittle. We’re both wildly excited about the opportunity. He has always said if he had college to do over again he would have studied to be a vet. In New Zealand, while they only have one vet school, it is affordable and accessible, both in terms of location and the opportunity for placement in the program. The degree is recognized internationally, allowing graduates to practice anywhere in the world. The first semester is potentially the biggest hurdle: Physics, Chemistry, Molecular Biology and Animal Physiology. Jim needs to graduate in the top 15% of his class to progress onto the first formal level of veterinary courses, which begin second semester. So, spaces are limited, but not impossible to get. Jim will focus 100% of his time on his studies. I will return to my career in the Employee Relations side of Human Resources, not as exciting, but not a burden either.

In the interim, we’re on a two month North American tour to visit family and friends. We just had a wonderful time in Canada, Vancouver Island to be exact. We visited with pals we met cruising in Mexico, Rob and Shannon. Jim spent several days working at Rob’s veterinary practice to fulfill the prerequisite work experience required before starting school in February. We’re now in Portland, Oregon where Jim will continue advancing toward his prerequisite hours. He will spend time observing another friend, Ashley, in her animal surgery practice. After that, it’s back to the Bay Area for the first time since we left in 2006. We are looking forward to catching up with everyone, visiting old haunts, and picking up a few of our remaining belongings to send on ahead to New Zealand.

If it sounds like a lot to digest, it is… but you know how the saying goes, “How does one eat an elephant? One mouthful at a time.” That approach saw us sell our house, furniture and cars, quit our jobs, then sail halfway around the world. Now, with that same approach we will move to NZ, start veterinary school, get a job and reassimilate to land-based living. If there’s one mantra we try to live by it’s “Live Life LARGE!”

Finally! I know you’ve all been waiting to hear. Yes, finally I did get a Coke Slurpee from 7-11. Victory was mine! Oh by the way, the guys made it to the dock in Australia too. I guess you were eager to hear of that victory as well. Just kidding! WoooWhoooo!!! They’re tucked into a nice, safe little slip at Rivergate Marina in Brisbane now. They sound excited and happy to be there. It was an 11 day passage just as the Captain expected and hoped. Jim said a steak dinner celebration is on the agenda for tonight! They’ve earned it. That’s, of course, after several cold beers tied up to a nice stationary dock!

I fly out of Hawaii Friday evening. Due to the International Date Line and time change, I will arrive in Brisbane Sunday morning. So, with that I’ll stop filling your inbox with updates. One final comment on the girly fun I’ve been having: I did buy the make-up products from my consult last week. Yesterday I wore it for the first time. I have to tell you there is a really big downside to wearing make-up and it’s not the time it takes to put “your face on.” The downside is when you are looking so closely in the mirror you see all kinds of flaws! Ironically, I never knew I had such bad skin until I started covering it up with make-up. Wow, there are sun spots, lines and blemishes. I always thought it was strange when women said they “had” to wear make-up. They just couldn’t go without it. I get that now. There’s something to be said for not wearing make-up and thereby not looking so closely in the mirror. It allows you to be a lot less self-conscious. We’ll see how long the diva in me sticks with wearing it AND we’ll see what the Captain says when he sees it in a few days.

Have a great weekend everyone!

Updates from Blue Plains Drifter and her crew en route to Brisbane, Australia:

Day 5
Jim called on the satellite phone. He said the wind was right on the nose and really pushing them off course. It was also giving them a bumpy ride. He was glad to have three on board because it took two of them just to manage boiling water to be able to make soup!

Day 6
We had a good night last night. The winds are coming around to the beam and the swell is getting better. We are not slamming into the waves anymore. It is looking good for a Friday afternoon arrival again. We’ll see.

Day 7
The sailing has been great today and it is supposed to stay this way for at least the next 3 days. I’m keeping my fingers crossed. We will have to maintain a 6kt average to get in on Friday evening. That could be tough. The wind is supposed to be staying around 12kts.

Base Camp Hawaii update:

Since when did Taco Bell start putting rice in the Taco Salad? No one told me about this. How did this happen? I stopped at another 7-11 in search of the elusive Coke Slurpee and again, DENIED. What is the deal? They have it in the machine but in both cases the coke variety was not frozen. On top of that, they don’t have my back-up flavor either - cherry. This is sheer madness!

Once again, like when I made landfall in New Zealand, the girl in me is in overdrive. I did a make-up consultation at Macy’s (I have not worn make-up since my prom) and I got a facial. Then there was this darling red leather purse on sale that I just had to have. In the last 3 years the only purse I’ve had has been a cloth like back pack with whales on it. I put a large ziploc inside to act as a liner since we often got rain quite abruptly and I wanted to keep the contents dry. So, I didn’t think it was crazy to buy a slightly, higher-end purse now that there is an end in sight to our cruising.

The plan remains - finalize our move to New Zealand, hopefully by year end.

Here are the last two updates from the Captain:

Day 3
Things are okay out here. We had some excitement last night, 40 knot gusts but only for a short time. It has been about 28 knots ever since. Just flying the staysail. You should be very happy you are not here. It has been pretty rough and is supposed to stay that way until Monday….Yuck!

Day 4
Everything still good here. We had a pretty calm night last night…only 16kts of wind from behind and not a bad sea. We all got some good sleep! It has been about the same today. We are doing about 140nm (nautical mile) days…about 6kt average which is very good. We could not fix the generator so we are running the engine to charge. No big deal about fuel. We have not had to do any motoring yet. I don’t expect we will have to do much for the rest of the trip.

Hawaii (U.S. soil update):

It is weird to see cars driving on what now seems like the “wrong” side of the road. It really freaks me out when mom makes a turn onto another road. I keep expecting a head-on collision. Using U.S. coin seems strange to me too. I can’t help looking at prices and trying to do a non-existent exchange rate conversion. The grocery store is way fun due to recognizing all the products. It’s strange though how much packaging of so many familiar items has changed: Pepsi, Sun Chips, Mountain Dew and a lot of others. Oh, and those orange goldfish crackers… they come in flavors now like cinnamon. It’s also a little weird recognizing so many chain stores like Macy’s, Wal-Mart, Borders, Home Depot. Everywhere I turn, is a recognized chain: Firestone, Blockbuster, all the food chains, etc… The new Fresco menu at Taco Bell isn’t bad. It’s almost like dieting, it’s so healthy!

Cooking… again, I like not having to salt water rinse in order to conserve fresh water. The counter space and the unlimited kitchen accessories are nice too, not to mention the DISHWASHER. Wow! I’ve been cooking a lot because it is so much more enjoyable in a house. The daily unlimited, hot shower never sucks. It’s also nice to turn on as many lights as I like and not worry if I walk out of a room and leave it on 5 minutes without being in that room. I’m not a P.G.& E. glutton but the freedom is nice. We haven’t been plugged into shore power for more than 2 years! Oh… let me not forget to appreciate fast internet and not watching my “pre-paid phone card minutes” when I make a call. I guess we’ve been gone a long time. I feel like a cave woman in some ways. Maybe soon I’ll discover “fire.”

Stay tuned for more updates.

Hi All!

Jim, Steve and John were able to leave Fiji on the 7th as they planned. Jim said the first two nights were pretty rolly. They averaged 20+ knots of wind and had some steep seas. They were making good time though and the boat is doing well. Jim is not a man of many words when it comes to passage updates.

At Base Camp Hawaii, I’ve had Taco Bell more times than I am willing to admit. I tried for another favorite, the Coke Slurpee, but the machine was down when we visited. Not to worry though, I am a persistent one. I’ll be back there again. Mom and I have also been busy visiting the volcano here on the Big Island, shopping and showing Ann a good Hawaiian vacation. I’ve been relishing the luxuries of a large kitchen, using all the fresh water I want to rinse my hands and dishes as I cook. I also love the super fresh and varied vegetables!

More passage updates in the days ahead.

Our friend Kathy visited for week and had no trouble slowing down to Fiji Time and cruising life. She held a drink in her hand every sundown and rarely went to bed later than 9 P.M. That’s how we roll in the islands. During the day, we made the most of her time snorkeling, visiting villages, getting her mandatory “I went somewhere sunny� base tan, exploring Malolo Lai Lai by bike, on foot, and kayaking— her favorite. It was fun for us too.

Passage time is upon us again. You may recall we changed our cruising plan after the eventful passage from New Zealand to Fiji. One boat sank. Others had noteworthy mechanical problems, one of which resulted in a boat towed to port; another lost their auto-pilot and hand-steered for several days. There were more issues, but those faded into distant memory. I am 41-years-old you know. With our cruising adventure coming to a close, the Captain and I decided to play it simple and safe for the season by staying in Fiji for the duration of our season, therein limiting the frequency of multiple-day passages and lessening the process of learning new places and hazards. By eliminating two countries from our sail plan—Vanuatu and New Caledonia—it makes for a longer, single passage to Australia. The trip length is about 1,450 miles and BPD should make it in 11-12 days ideally. Weather has not followed normal trends for the last three months though: forecasts have been very wrong, both in wind direction and speed, and minor weather systems continue to roll through every 7–10 days. This means the passage to Australia could meet with unforeseen conditions and at minimum one or two systems including some measure of high winds and inclement weather. In discussing this with fellow cruisers, Jim found two buddies happy to do the passage with him on Blue Plains Drifter: Steve from Elusive and John from Scarlett O’Hara.

It’s no secret to any of you what my thoughts regarding extended passages and the number of people appropriate on a boat for long passages. Three people is an ideal crew in regard to rotating watches and living space in the cockpit. Yes, that means I’ll be diverting. I haven’t seen Mom in 2 years so this seemed like an opportune time to visit her in Hawaii. Not only do I get to visit Mom but my gal pal, Ann, is flying in for the first week as well. It’s a regular reunion on the Big Island! The best news of all (don’t tell Mom I said this)… they have a Taco Bell near Mom’s house! Those of you who have read along for the last few years know that the thing I’ve missed most during our travels is Taco Bell [Of course, that’s just behind missing all of you—wink, wink.] I know it is a separate food group but for that reason I haven’t found a substitute for my one fast food indulgence. I can almost smell a steak soft taco now and maybe a burrito supreme (hold the sour cream please). Yes, I am very excited about my two weeks in Hawaii with Mom, Ann, and the friendly staff at Taco Bell.

Jim and I will keep in touch during BPD’s passage to Australia from Fiji via emails over the single-side-band (SSB) radio. I will also watch and report weather forecasts to him since I will be able to access them over the internet. I’ll use his tidbits to update you on their progress. The plan is for Blue Plains Drifter and her “old saltsâ€� to leave Fiji around the 7th of September. I’ll drop you a note when they’re underway. Taco Bell, here I come!

A new album has been added to the Gallery tab, Island Hopping Fiji. It should give you a taste of why we’ve enjoyed Fiji so much.

In our last update, we told you about taking it slow and easy in Fiji. Well, we’re still in Fiji and we’re still taking it slow and easy but at least we’ve slipped the mooring line and ventured out to discover more places. We’re now touring a neighboring Fijian island group, the Yasawas. The movies Castaway and The Blue Lagoon were filmed around several islands here. There is no internet, no cell phones and certainly nothing more than floating means of transportation but it sure is rich in seascape. Our first island, Navadra, perhaps embodies the most picturesque tropical island setting we’ve encountered in all our travels. It felt like we had jumped into a postcard when we sailed into view: towering palms leaning out over deserted beaches, brown coconuts and white weathered shells dimpling the deep sand beaches, dense green shrubbery hugging coarse rock outcroppings which rose as the backdrop, the gentle clash of stunted waves lapping and toppling over at the water’s edge, and a stillness that allowed us to hear wind rustling through the treetops. The snorkeling at Navadra displayed stunning coral color and quantity; so much so that we snorkeled every day we spent there. On our first night, we enjoyed a bonfire ashore while we grilled delectables and drank heartily (what else is new?) with six other yachts: Meridian, Airstream, Don Pedro, Argonaut, Tin Soldier and Wind Dancer.

Our next island hop was a tiny little island, Kuata, whose charm lay in her villagers. They greeted us in the anchorage, inviting us to shore. On shore, we made our way through papaya groves to a dozen or more thatched huts. Locals’ laundry swayed in the wind. The pristine white of their laundry always draws comments from us boaters, “How do they get things so white?” The village offers accommodation in many of the huts, and women sell handmade jewelry under a rock overhang adjacent to the beach. A communal eating hut offers meals to guests and visitors. Papa Jack is the villager in charge of tending to newcomers. When Papa Jack wasn’t checking on us, he napped in a hammock with a book over his face. The young girls on Meridian took jewelry weaving lessons while their mom, Nancy, and I played Scrabble. Jim and John, from Meridian, soaked in the atmosphere, walking the beach or talking with Jack and other local men. I got massaged under an open hut next to the water. The experience more closely resembled a rub down with coconut oil but for $20 US for an hour, I didn’t complain. Our most active undertaking entailed hiking to the top of the island via an overgrown path. At the top of the climb, we came to an opening in the vegetation, giving us a peek at BPD anchored in the small bay below.

Our most exhilarating Yasawa adventure so far happened at Drawaqa. We snorkeled the shoreline and bought fresh lobster from local fishermen but that’s not the exhilarating part. Just before high tide we dinghied to the nearby pass, as the tidal change occurs, passes become quite turbulent with chop and a ripping current. So, why were we there? We were hunting the giant Pacific Manta Rays and found them. We swam with them as they fed on teeny, tiny plankton and fish. It was mind-blowing. Such sea creatures can have 18½ feet wing spans, and weigh up to 2,300 pounds. Jim or I drove the dinghy until the dark purplish-gray back of a manta ray was spotted through the water, then we would position the dinghy up current of the ray and drop off the swimmer. That person then drifted with the current to where the rays were feeding, snorkeling above and beside them as they fed. They have large flat flaps extending from the front of their heads. They use these flaps to corral food into their giant maws. One large eye is located just at the base of the flap where it joins the torso. The eyes must be over a foot apart, quite strange looking as you can imagine. I was able to swim with the largest ray, over ten feet across, for fifteen minutes before he gracefully faded out of view and into the distance. Earlier, the same ray appeared to be swimming off, but turned and came back heading directly for me and my then swimming companion, 9-year-old Maddie. I tucked Maddie behind me and we watched as his wing tip nearly touched us. I can’t find words to describe the adrenaline surge. In excitement and awe, the experience rates near swimming with whales in Tonga and petting sting rays in Moorea.

We’re currently anchored at Blue Lagoon which got its name from the movie, of course. At low tide you can walk around the island in ninety minutes. It has all the tropical markers and even a sleepy little resort which welcomes cruisers for meals, drinks and massage. This time it was Jim’s turn to indulge in a massage. The weather has been a little unsettled recently but the anchorage remains flat calm so we’ve called it home the last four nights. Late morning today, we headed off to a smaller, quainter place, Naviti. We anchored in front of a village and performed the ceremonial sevusevu with the chief. This means we presented him with kava. This is a traditional means of welcoming us to the village. The root is made of the Piper methysticum shrub. Although we haven’t tasted it ourselves, it is said to have a muddy, punjent taste which when drunk makes your lips numb, your limbs heavy and your speech slow and quiet. After the sevusevu we toured the village and handed out lollies (candy) and toys to the kids. They loved watching Jim juggle and their eyes went wide with the introduction of a frisbee. Throughout the next week, we’ll continue island hopping our way to Musket Cove on Malolo Lailai. Our friend Kathy is flying in for a visit. She’s picked a great venue. We plan to provide her with an entertaining vacation and slow her down to Fiji Time.

We arrived in Fiji more than one month ago. Life is good. The air temperature is a consistent 75-85 degrees with low humidity and water temperature measures an agreeable 73 degrees. We’ve spent the last month moored at the resort island of Malolo Lailai on the western side of Fiji’s main island, Viti Levu. Three bungalow style resorts dot the palm-fringed shoreline, all are cruiser friendly. We can access pools, restaurants, a general store with all the basics, an island bar (picture an island “hutâ€� bar) and a small, high quality spa facility. With only sand roadways, the island has no place for cars. A few golf carts buzz around and bikes are available for rent. Aerial views from the hilltops afford quintessential island landscape panoramas with reefs skirting the edges showcasing the full spectrum of blue water colors. There are, in fact, two islands, Malolo Lai Lai and Malolo, but at low tide, they join into one. The water recedes, providing a sand walkway between the two - a great place for shell collecting. At sunset, pink clouds form over open ocean to the west adding texture and volume to the sky. Once the sun goes down our backdrop is twinkling light clusters ashore, bright constellations of anchor lights in the foreground, and a backdrop of the stars above.
This is perhaps the slowest pace we’ve ever sustained and yet the days and weeks seem to pass quickly. Reading is a constant, enjoyable undertaking. I currently average two books per week but just the other day I started and finished a book on the same day. Now that’s a good day and a good book. When we expend more energy, we usually snorkel, walk the island adding to our ever expanding collection of shells, kayak or bike. An adventurous day has us at one of three local villages, either via kayak or crossing the sandbar on foot at low tide. We pass out treats and toys to the children and admire wood carvings. Life is slow here and locals know it. They refer to the pace as “Fiji Time.�
We celebrated Jim’s 41st birthday a few weeks ago. His special day started off with a massage followed by lunch at one of the resorts and an afternoon nap. While he enjoyed those, I secretly orchestrated a surprise party later that evening at the island bar in honor of his latest trip around the sun. What better venue than an island bar for Jim’s birthday party? We had balloons, cake, cupcakes, apple pie, barbecue fare and an unlimited supply of the local beer, Fiji Bitter, not to mention 15 cruising pals singing Happy Birthday. If he had to turn another year older it was the way to do it.
The next two months may take us to another island group, the Yasawas, which is within a day-sail from here. Then again, we may just stay right here. It’s hard to say. After all, we are on “Fiji Time.�

Neptune gave us a good wallop for our last night, with winds hovering around 30 knots most of the night. Seas rose and fell above the decks due to steady 15-18 ft swells with random waves coming from the upwind direction that would push us over like a bully on a kids’ playground causing our port-side rail to carve a frothy through the waves. I was so tired though, the last night that I actually had one of my more restful nights of sleep.

By morning, the winds blew directly on the nose. This meant we could either beat into the wind or tack (a zig-zag sailing path) to make progress towards our waypoint, the entrance to the reef southwest of the island of Viti Levu, Fiji. There is one other option which again our Captain of infinite wisdom and no Popeye ego opted for which was creative sail selection, choosing what we call our D-Sail, but is actually spelled Diesel. Oh yeah! Jim started our 100 hp Yanmar turbo and we hauled butt for four hours to make the pass.

A few hours later, after transiting the channel, we dropped the anchor. We hurried to Customs to get checked-in to the country. Paperwork complete, we made a dash to town in search of Steve, Wendy and Allan on Elusive to see how they were doing in their hotel. We scoured the town in search of them to no avail. The town was sensory overload! It was more bustling, dirty and crowded than anywhere we’ve been since leaving Mexico. Still, it’s always interesting to see a new country and city. We think the tiny little islands where we plan to head in a day or two are where we’ll find calendar settings, a relaxed pace and island charm.

After a cheap but tasty dinner, that cost $9 USD for all three of us, we caught Elusive’s crew at their hotel. It was no surprise they were in good spirits and cheer and immediately ushered us towards the hotel bar for reunion drinks. Steve and Wendy have always had a positive attitude and let nothing deter them from making the best of a situation, even if it’s brutally forced upon them as was the case with the boat sinking. Jim felt so assured by their good mood he even let loose with a line to Steve even I wouldn’t have dared, “So, how is our newest submarine captain?” Steve, Wendy and Allan plan to spend a month in Fiji, much of it island hopping via BPD to land-based accommodations. This is fabulous news to us. Afterwards, they’re off to Thailand for a month of travel then hopping over to Hong Kong. Yeah, talk about taking things in stride… we couldn’t be happier. It truly does allow us to better enjoy ourselves knowing they will be having a good time.

So, with that exciting passage at a close, we’d like to say, “thank you,” to everyone for your notes and comments. The winner of best email goes to Elise on the sailing vessel Cutthroat who wrote: “STOP WHINING! It’s an adventure. Complaining about the boat rocking is like saying you didn’t know you were going cruising in the ocean. Remember how excited you were to get out there on the first passage? It was exciting… a chance to test your mettle… don’t tell me yours is made of nerf!” God bless Elise for a healthy dose of perspective. She followed that line with: “I do know exactly what you’re saying though. I don’t care if I ever do another passage.” Ah. Now, there’s my fellow cruisers’ attitude.

Stay tuned for rest, reading, swimming and sundowners in the islands.

Whoever said, “It’s about the journey, not the destination” was definitely not a cruiser. My original thought for that sentence was, “Whoever said it’s about the journey, not the destination should be punched in the head”. That sounds a little violent, although, I still think it’s true.

Ah, we’re still at it. The last 3 days have been 20 knot winds, gusting at times to 28, 10-12ft seas and periods of intermittent squalls (higher winds from various directions, rain and elevated seas). That’s made for a lot of rolling port to starboard and howling wind sound effects. The swell takes a toll on the boat while the sound of the wind takes more of a mental toll on me, especially at night when we have no moonlight (no visibility) for 13 hours. Perhaps, as a result of the conditions, six out of the eight boats in our flotilla have had problems. In second place, for most challenging situation right now, is the boat The Dorothy Marie. They have been hand steering for 3 days and have at least another two days of it because their auto-pilot couldn’t handle the sea conditions and just quit. Bold Spirit lost use of their engine alternator. Mischief had to hang upside down over the stern in rolling seas to replace a line on his wind vane and our staysail furler is no longer functioning so we can’t use that sail. BPD is cutter rigged which means we still have a head sail and main sail. So it’s not a big deal except that we like the little staysail for high winds and stabilizing the roll. Fixing it would require going up the mast and there’s no way Jim is doing that out here.

Patrick suggested that my posts lately tend to sound negative. Patrick is now swimming the rest of the way to Fiji. We wish him well. Just kidding. He is right but that’s the nature of cruising. Passages are a means to an end for most yachties. We all do them to get to postcard settings where we frolick in the warm waters and keep cool with cold drinks in the company of friends. Neither Jim nor I have ever heard someone say, “Boy, I’m really looking forward to getting offshore again on passage”.

At 2:00 pm on Thursday, we have a little over 200 miles to Fiji with no weather concerns ahead. We’ll scoot inside the reef and travel another 25 miles to our check-in destination. We should be anchor down around noon on Saturday. We’re looking forward to it.

Jim kicked ass analyzing that last weather system! There’s no other way to say it. After my note to you, he continued to review weather and decided our best bet was to, in effect, turn tail and run for it. We didn’t do a complete 180 but we did alter course and return 90 miles back the way we came with a more westerward angle. Jim’s routing made sure we stayed south of heavy weather and allowed us to sneak up behind the low-pressure system. While we had winds in excess of 20 knots and seas in the 10 ft range, it was less than half of what we could have encountered had we tried to plow through. All the boats in our flotilla altered course in one way or another. Seas remain lumpy and bumpy today with 9-10-foot swells, but winds have abated to the 12-15 knot range. The hardest challenge facing us now is laying a course directly for Lautoka, Fiji. We are currently motor-sailing upwind, which is no fun but better than getting our butts kicked last night.

NOTE: Mothers, sisters and aunts stop reading here. Again, I’m not being funny but recommend you not read the following until we arrive in Fiji.

About seven hours before the system hit-and it does in fact “hit”. We heard a distressing call that our dear friends, Steve and Wendy, on Elusive were taking on water. Another friend of ours, Scarlett O’Hara was en route to assist them. Wendy, you may recall, was my Auckland buddy for two weeks while our husbands brought our boats over from Tonga in November. Elusive, a J race boat, had started taking on water. Steve tore it apart trying to find the source he couldn’t locate it. Wendy and their 30-year-old son, Allan, boarded the dinghy (liferaft in effect) in anticipation of sinking. Luckily, Scarlett O’Hara, made it to them before things went further. Tied aside Elusive, John from Scarlett boarded the sinking boat in an attempt to help Steve find the leak. Steve and John are two of the most savvy boat maintenance, fix-it guys in the fleet. Unfortunately, that wasn’t enough this time. Elusive had to be abandoned and was coasting barely above the surface less than an hour before dark. It goes without saying we were devastated listening to these events unfold on the emergency net that coincided in timing with the sinking. It was emotionally disturbing and shocking to say the very least. We’ve heard and talked with Steve over the radio since then and it is still heart-warming every time we hear his voice. They were so very fortunate that Scarlett was so close, that this happened before dark and before the storm. It is said, “Things happen for a reason.” If this weather system had not been advancing Elusive and Scarlett would not have been as close to one another and a sea rescue of this sort may not have been possible. We thank God, a million times over, things worked out the way they did. Steve, Wendy and Allan remain on Scarlett en route to Fiji with the rest of the fleet.

Note to our mothers: In all sincerity you should not read this update. Let Dad do it and update you on it much later. Yes, I am serious mom - don’t read it.

We’re several days into an 8 day passage and have received word that a large weather system is developing over Fiji and heading our way. We have about 18 hours of notice right now so we’re significantly altering course, heading west to try and get to the back end of a large low. However, we’re still likely to see winds near 45 knots and seas in excess of 18 feet. This will be the largest weather system we’ve endured. It is expected to last for 36 hours. Now, if I were you I would maybe wonder why I am sending out this kind of an update. Why cause alarm to those of you who can only wait for word from us? My hope is the old adage “Much ado about nothing.” I’m hoping by merely mentioning this to you that it is greatly overstated and I can make fun of myself for even raising it as an area of concern. Let us all hope for that.

The weather system should arrive around midnight our time on Saturday which will be 5 am Saturday morning in California. We’ll spend the daylight hours today going over everything on deck to make sure it is lashed down tightly. We’ll try and sleep as much as possible to be ready for extended periods of heightened attention to conditions. We’ll share weather information and plans for altering course with neighboring boats. We’ll check in with the Pacific Seafarer’s Net who monitors boat course, state and conditions with a daily roll call and check-in. Oh and I might return to my Catholic roots and pray here and there in my down time. This is not a hurricane or the like thereof. It is a large system that will pack a punch. Just the same we don’t like getting punched.